while they hover above him. Their wide fins flap hard like wings, but the current is so strong they are not moving far. All around them, flotillas of fish are caught up in the same momentum, swaying violently back and forth, at the mercy of the relentless push-pull of water.
A sea lion shoots into view from nowhere, and the fish are supercharged by fear, conquering the current and parting instantly to allow him passage. The animal disappears in an instant, obviously on a mission, leaving Jackson deflated. He has snorkelled with other sea lions in the late afternoons when work is over, and their company is energising. On land, they are snoring, farting, groaning hunks of hairy brown blubber that laze in tightly packed rows along the sand; but in the sea they are lightning-fast acrobatic show-offs, dancing around him, synchronising their movements with his. He has been inspected or greeted by a few of them, who dared swim close enough to eyeball him through his mask. When they dart off, Jackson always struggles to follow, slow and clumsy in their wake.
Ian had snorkelled with the sea lions too, and Jackson found it hard to witness his limited movements. Only a few years ago, Ian was always first to a whale shark’s head, and the last one to fall away. Then eighteen months ago, while driving home, he had swerved to avoid a motorbike and crashed into a lamppost, crushing his right leg. According to his medical team, his recovery had been remarkable, but while snorkelling he had struggled, and had to be supported up the steps onto the boat.
Thinking of it, Jackson is ashamed of his anger, especially when he knows Ian would love to be down here with him. No wonder Ian is cautious about safety, knowing how quickly things can change.
Jackson decides to go to his knees on the seabed while they wait, and peers down to check the rocks below. He is about to brush against them when the rock suddenly moves. A stone scorpionfish snaps at something and then shuts its mouth, instantly re-establishing its mottled camouflage. Alarmed at the danger, Jackson lets go of the rock and finds himself flying backward again, scrabbling for something to cling to. He grabs at a pinnacle, firms his grip and recovers his breathing, but now Sebastian is nowhere to be seen. Jackson can do nothing but wait – he knows he cannot fight the current to go and find him.
A moment later Sebastian joins him. Jackson can see the frown behind his mask, as he checks again if Jackson is okay. But Jackson doesn’t even have time to reply before Sebastian’s eyes widen and he points frantically over Jackson’s shoulder.
He looks around. Less than five metres from them, two huge hammerhead sharks have appeared, gliding towards them. Soon they are barely an arm’s length away, cruising slowly, fin tips extended like blades. Jackson finds himself studying the single black eyes visible on the sides of their strange, flat, scalloped heads. They are sizing him up.
Awestruck, Jackson stares back. He is the intruder here, and he won’t disrespect a predator’s domain. The sharks keep moving, scanning the water as they go, a pair of powerful princes surveying their kingdom. Jackson is riveted until the tips of their tails disappear. Now they are out of sight, but still so close. What else might be watching them beyond the edge of their vision?
Beside him, Sebastian picks up Jackson’s air gauge and taps on it to draw his attention. Jackson is shocked to see he’s only got 30 bar of air left – to be safe he should have told Sebastian when he reached fifty. He can’t believe he’s used so much so quickly.
Sebastian signals rapidly with his thumb. They have to go up, now.
Jackson depresses a button and hears air shoot into his jacket. They ascend to the five-metre mark, where they both hover in the blue, waiting to complete their safety stop. Having recently seen two big sharks, it is disconcerting to be surrounded by an aquamarine haze. Nevertheless, Jackson’s adrenaline is still buzzing from the first encounter, and he’s greedy for more.
But nothing happens. After five minutes is up, Jackson follows Sebastian’s lead, and they kick upwards.
Despite the current, there had been a certain calmness below the water, but as soon as Jackson puts his head above the surface it is chaos. The waves are remorseless. The small inflatable pitches and tosses above them, with those inside gesturing