few steps back, then strode forward, reached out and said to Mother: ‘Here, let me.’
She hesitated briefly before laying down the hatchet and stepping away.
Father rolled up his sleeves, pushed up the tattered cuffs of his vest beneath his shirtsleeves, picked up the hatchet and raised it over his head. Without, it seemed, taking aim, he took an easy swing, then another, and the pig's head split right down the middle.
Mother was studying Father, who had stepped away from the chopping board, with a look so ambiguous that even I, a son who thought he could read her mind and anticipate her every move, had no idea what she was thinking. But here's what it boiled down to: the moment Father split that pig's head in two, Mother's mood underwent a change. She pursed her lips slightly and poured half a bucket of water into the pot on the stove, a little too forcefully, I thought, since some of it splashed over the sides onto a box of matches on the stove rack. She then tossed the bucket into the corner, where it rattled noisily and gave us a bit of a fright. Father stayed where he was, looking awkward and unsure and not a pretty sight. We all watched as Mother picked up half the head by the ear and tossed it into the pot, followed by the other half. I wished I could have reminded her that the best way to bring out the flavour of a pig's head was to season it with fennel, ginger, green onions, garlic, Chinese cinnamon and cardamom and, finally, a spoonful of Korean vinegar, but that was Aunty Wild Mule's secret recipe. In days past, I'd often sneaked over to her restaurant with Father to feast on meat dishes she'd prepared, and more than once I'd watched her cook a pig's head. I'd even seen Father split one for her—one chop, maybe two, but never more than three, and it was done. She'd gaze at him with admiring eyes. Once I heard her say: ‘Luo Tong, I say, Luo Tong, you're the best at anything you put your hand to, with no help from any teacher!’
There was something special about Aunty Wild Mule's pig's head, which had earned her a fine reputation, not only in our village but also, thanks to her greedy customers, all the way to the market town fifteen or twenty li away. Even Lao Han, who had the onerous responsibility of overseeing township officials’ dietary concerns, made the trip every three or four days. He arrived with a shout of ‘Old Wild!’ and she came out running. ‘Elder Brother Han,’ she said (that's what she called him, a term of endearment). ‘Got one in the pot? I'll take half.’ ‘I sure do. It'll be ready in a minute. Have some tea while you wait.’ She poured the tea and lit his cigarette, smiling broadly. ‘Did you say that officials from the city are here?’ ‘They're fans of your cooking. Mayor Hua says he wants to meet you. Old Wild, your future looks bright. Have you heard that his wife's on her deathbed? She won't last more than a couple of days. Once she's gone, he might just take you home. But when you're the mayor's wife, living in the lap of luxury, don't turn your back on your friends!’ Father coughed then to attract Uncle Han's attention. He turned and spotted Father, stared at him with buggy yellow eyes. ‘Luo Tong, you old son of a bitch, is that you? What the fuck are you doing here?’ ‘Why the fuck shouldn't I be here?’ Father replied, neither servile nor overbearing. Uncle Han's taut face relaxed as he absorbed the language of Father's reply, and then smiled, revealing a set of teeth as white as limestone. ‘Be careful,’ he said, ‘you're nothing but a bum, while Wild Mule, well, she's a piece of fruit just ripe for the picking. There are plenty of potential pickers, and if you try to keep this juicy titbit to yourself those others might gang up and relieve you of your cock.’ ‘You can both shut your traps,’ snapped Aunty Wild Mule, ‘and you can stop treating me like a toy for your entertainment, a little something for you to snack on. Get me mad, and I'll take the knife to both of you.’ ‘My, my, what a feisty thing we've got here,’ Han said. ‘After all the sweet talk, how can you turn