says, I’m going to take it out. She steps forward and pulls the tube from Anna’s throat and at this instant the nurse reappears, shrieking furiously. When Caroline tries to explain she shakes her head, the tube was in her stomach, she insists, don’t tell me my job.
But Caroline is right, later that day they will have to drain Anna’s lung and later still she will develop pneumonia on that side. But all of this is in the future and where they are is very much the present tense. They have moved her upstairs to do a stomach wash, the ingredients for which I again have to rush and buy at the pharmacy. Afterwards I’m detained downstairs by the doctor. He’s telling me that if the stomach wash doesn’t do the job, they will have to move her to the big hospital in Panjim. They have a heart and lung machine there, she is in danger of organ failure, they just don’t have the equipment here in Margao.
By the time I get upstairs and find her, another scene has developed. She is lying in a bed in a ward full of sick women, a thicket of ailing female flesh. They are all Indian and the peculiar drama unfolding in the corner with its cast of foreigners is of intense interest to them. They stare with candid fascination as it becomes clear that the stomach wash has made the sleeping woman’s bowels give way. A stain spreads across the back of her nightdress, a bad smell rises. He looks around wildly in search of a nurse, but of course it doesn’t work like this. The doctor tells us sternly, your friend has made a mess. You must clean it.
Oh God, I say, I can’t believe this. And it’s one of the few occasions in his life when the statement is actually true. This morning I was walking on the beach, now I must clean my dying friend’s shit. Caroline takes control again, becoming terse and efficient. We’ll need rubber gloves and disinfectant and cotton wool. The doctor writes these items on a piece of paper, I run down two flights of stairs and across the hospital to the pharmacy. When I get back Caroline has cut Anna’s nightdress off her, as well as the swimming costume underneath. We roll her onto her side. She is an absolutely unhelpful mass, a dead weight. The other women in the ward find this whole exercise hilarious, they giggle and titter behind their hands.
As we start on the business of cleaning her, it rapidly becomes too much. I put the cotton swab down and say, more to myself than anybody, I don’t know if I can do this. Caroline looks at me and says, let me handle it, I do it as part of my job. As a nurse, she takes care of sick, elderly, often bed-ridden people in England, which is how she makes her money to stay in India. Again I have that rush of gratitude to Caroline, for undertaking this task instead of me.
The watching women rock with merriment as Caroline wipes her clean. I go out into the corridor. I feel far from myself and from the surfaces around me, as if I’m looking down a long dark tunnel at the sunlit world beyond. The doctor, a fat lazy-looking man, comes back. We’re going to have to move her, he says. But not like that.
What do you mean.
She is naked, no. She must be dressed. We cannot take her in the ambulance like that.
But, I say. But. I don’t have a dress. Can’t you, I mean, don’t you have something, a hospital gown or something.
He shakes his head. You must find a dress.
It’s hard to believe, under the circumstances, that modesty should be a priority. I want to seize this plump, complacent man, who seems almost to be enjoying my plight, and shake him till his teeth rattle and he concedes that a dress doesn’t matter, no not at all, at a moment like this. But I know I have no choice. See him rush down the stairs again, along the corridor, out the door to the hospital and along the street to the main road. He goes into a shop, but they don’t sell dresses. For that, they tell him helpfully, he will have to go to the market. So he runs out again and flags down a bus and pays to get on, like any ordinary passenger. See him