Just Last Night - Mhairi McFarlane Page 0,46

say. ‘They’ll put anything on anything.’

‘There seems to be a glorification of things you only used to eat when you were steaming at three a.m. in my day.’

‘Modern world, Phil. It’s not for us,’ I say.

‘Ah stop, you’re young!’ Phil says, and I can see by his face he’s awkward at being even that complimentary. Is this that thing called flattery, he’s thinking. Am I doing it right?

‘Well, thank you.’

Phil looks at the page I’m on.

‘Can we call them “dirty”? Isn’t that a bit contrary to health and safety?’

‘It’s accepted to mean “calorific stuff dumped on top”, now. Marks and Spencer do dirty fries.’

‘Oh. Right you are.’

Phil shakes his head in dismay at his monitor.

I drag an image of the El Gringo Dog – jalapeños, avocado and crushed tortilla chips topping – onto the page and wish I did a more useful job, like Ed teaching kids or Justin caring for old people. It’s pretty hard to tell yourself to soldier on so that the region gets vital information about the Triple XXX Ringstinger Chilli Dog.

What would Susie want me to do? I ask myself, as an antidote for feeling useless. I know the answer immediately. She’d want me to check on her dad, beyond one stilted phone call. It’s intimidating, given I’m unsure about who I will encounter.

I remember when she first mentioned he was struggling, a couple of years ago. She said: ‘I caught my dad looking up “ice cream” on Wikipedia. I was, like – “Dad, are you thinking of a retirement business, churning your own?” He said ‘“It’s the darndest thing, I can’t remember what ice cream is. Is it ice, and cream?”’

Susie talked him through mint choc chip and vanilla flavours and cornets by the seaside, and he laughed and said, ‘Of course!’

At the time, we brushed it off as a slightly worrying but ultimately quirky bout of senior forgetfulness.

It sounds ridiculous, but Susie’s dad used to run his own engineering company and was an amateur tennis champion. Iain Hart, with his soft Caledonian burr, was a self-made, old-school, head-of-the-family type, with a bristling moustache. He was a very involved governor at our school, a member of the Masons, a bootstraps Tory who brooked no self pity. It didn’t feel as if he could get dementia. We were sure he’d kick dementia’s arse until it apologised.

In my early twenties, I was briefly in a house share with two others where my female housemate was never there due to shift work, and my male housemate was a lunatic and a creep, given to throwing furniture around and warning me he’d pursue me if I tried to leave.

Susie told her dad. In absence of me having a dad (in the UK) to do the same for me, he barrelled round in his BMW 5 Series, parked right outside with a noisy screech of brakes, audibly pulling the handbrake on so hard it was like he was cocking a gun. He banged on the door, marched in and told me to pack my things in front of the perp. Mr Hart then calmly informed him if he touched a hair on my head, he’d find himself floating in the Trent. My housemate suddenly wasn’t such a bully, and insisted meekly that I’d misunderstood. I’ll be forever grateful for that intervention.

After work, I catch a bus heading the other way out of town and walk the short distance from the bus stop to the Harts’ family home. It’s too cold for kids to be playing out – and possibly too much in the age of Minecraft – and the streets seem eerily quiet, compared to my less expensive postcode.

These houses with their bay windows and neatly delineated, walled territories used to seem like imposing castles to me when I was small, in the long summers of childhood. They’re far more quotidian suburbia in my thirties. Which is ironic, really, given I’m even less likely to inhabit one after piddling away my career chances in my twenties: they’re further out of reach than ever.

The cost of this area means the demographic skews older – not within the reach of young professionals and families, who, if they do take on this size of mortgage, would probably go for something more fashionable they could stick bifold doors and a marble kitchen island into.

I walk up to the Harts, No. 67, and as I do, I think: how many times did I stand on these very paving flags as a kid and think

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