Between the Land and the Sea - By Derrolyn Anderson Page 0,54
to spring up to my feet in one swift movement.
“Don’t expect to stand up on a wave the first time,” he said, “but don’t get discouraged, if you pick it up like you did swimming, you’ll do just fine.” We slipped into our wetsuits and headed out into some small waves. Ethan showed me how to dive through the wave with a board, dipping the nose to keep it from being pushed back into me. He stressed that the most dangerous thing was getting hit by your own board, and that when I fell I must protect my head with my arms, and stay under just a little longer to let it clear away.
I was surprised at how much there was to know; Ethan always made it look so easy.
Once we got past the breaking waves we started to paddle out, lying on the boards and doing the crawl stroke. I was a little wobbly at first, but I watched Ethan carefully, and tried hard to mimic him. I got out past the wave break and learned how to sit up steadily on the board, laughing as I kept tipping over at first. I felt comfortable with the sensation of being in the water, and I was happier than I’d been all week. My joy must have been infectious, for Ethan finally loosened up and relaxed.
Once I mastered the art of sitting up, I turned to Ethan with a grin, “Let’s have a demonstration.”
He smiled back, and began to paddle hard for the shore. Tensing catlike on the board he easily sprang upright, surfing the small wave for a surprising distance before I lost sight of him.
He came swiftly back to my side, sitting up on the board and explaining how to catch a wave. I nodded, trying to remember everything he said. I was distracted by a flash of color out of the corner of my eye. Was that a glint of coppery hair? I scanned the water but saw nothing.
Gathering my courage, I chose a swell that looked promising and started paddling as fast as I could. I could feel the speed of the water pick up and start to carry the board. I managed to get to my feet and stand in a crouch for a few moments before I wobbled and fell. After a little bit of churning in the white water I surfaced and retrieved my board. Ethan came paddling up to check on me and I waved him off, ready to try again.
“Nice start,” he called over. “Next time try putting your arms out more.” I took his advice and each time I tried I got better and better. Finally I managed to actually stay on my feet, drop down onto a good sized wave and surf across it diagonally, staying just ahead of the breaking crest. I paddled back out, smiling triumphantly. It was as fun as it looked, and I was feeling so good I forgot about mermaids and school and everything but just being happy.
Ethan came over to me, “You’re doing great! You learn fast.” I sat up on my board next to him in the water with a big smile.
“I think I need a rest,” I said, panting to catch my breath. My legs were getting a little unsteady, and my arms felt like wet noodles. We sat quietly astride our surfboards, enjoying a moment of calm and the rhythmic rise and fall of the incoming swells. It had been another perfect day, just me, Ethan and the sea.
“We should head in,” he said.
I smiled at him affectionately, “Thanks so much…That was fun.” I looked down at my board and was surprised to see the water surrounding us filled with light reflecting from sleek, shining bodies. The sea churned and splashed. It was a pod of dolphins! They started leaping and diving in a tight circle around us, twisting in the air as if they were trying to make eye contact with me. I looked over at Ethan and saw his blue eyes filled with wonder. The dance continued for several minutes until I started to laugh out loud. All at once the dolphins leapt in unison and disappeared underwater in complete synchronization.
The sea became completely calm again. I thought about Lorelei, and how she had commanded the sea lions. That was her I had seen! I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face as I scanned the sea all around us, looking for her.